Cardiff has long been a hub of rich cultural history, but its contribution to the evolution of men’s fashion is a story not often told. Tony, co-author of the critically acclaimed book Magnetic, sat down with Hoxton to discuss the book’s creation, its exploration of street-level style, and the cultural movements that defined an era.
Magnetic is not your typical coffee table book. Co-written by Tony over two and a half years, it offers an authentic look at UK men’s fashion, diving deep into the cultural forces of football, music, and nightlife that shaped its evolution. Unlike brand-produced archives from labels like Stone Island or CP Company, Magnetic focuses on the grassroots story—who was wearing these clothes, why they mattered, and how they reflected broader cultural movements.
“This was about telling a story from the ground up,” Tony explains. “We wanted to create something fresh, something that hadn’t been done before.”
Tony’s passion for men’s fashion began as a teenager in the mid-1980s. At the time, Cardiff was embracing a shift from sportswear to premium European brands like Armani, CP Company, and Chevignon.
“CP Company was first sold in Cardiff at a small store called Pavilion,” Tony recalls. “They were ahead of the game, introducing the brand to Wales before other stores like Woodies caught on.”
By the early 1990s, Tony was travelling to London to explore iconic stores like Harrods and John Anthony. In 1990, he purchased his first piece of Stone Island, a pivotal moment that marked the beginning of a lifelong appreciation for the brand.
“At the time, Stone Island wasn’t well-known,” Tony explains. “It was niche, with jackets costing up to £400—a serious investment. But for those in the know, it was about the quality, the innovation, and standing out.”
Football played a significant role in popularising Stone Island in the UK. Tony vividly remembers moments where fans across the country were unified by their shared appreciation for the brand.
“One story stands out,” Tony recalls. “After a Cardiff City match, we met some Millwall fans wearing the same gear. They tipped us off about a shop in London, Webster and Walker, which had rails of Stone Island and Ice Jackets on sale for £50. A week later, we were driving to London and stocking up on gear that’s now worth thousands.”
Through football, Stone Island’s reach grew. By the early 1990s, fans were bringing pieces back from trips to Europe, fueling the brand’s reputation as a must-have among style-conscious men.
During the late 1980s and 1990s, high-end items like Stone Island often ended up as overstock in Italy or sold at deep discounts in the UK. Tony notes that items which now fetch thousands on the vintage market were once attainable for a fraction of the price.
“At one point in the late 90s, you could find CP jackets for £5 on Italian eBay,” he shares. “British football lads kept these brands alive, creating what we now know as the vintage Stone Island scene.”
By 1993, Stone Island had gained significant traction across the UK, earning its place on the same shelves as Armani in leading fashion retailers. However, its appeal wasn’t universal—by the late 1990s, the brand saw a slight decline in popularity as trends shifted.
Yet, for loyal fans and collectors, the appeal of Stone Island never waned. Today, the brand enjoys a massive resurgence, with vintage pieces driving a booming second-hand market.
“It’s incredible to think that back then, we were picking up jackets for next to nothing,” Tony reflects. “The craftsmanship and innovation in their designs were what set them apart—heat-reactive fabrics, reflective materials, and bold experimentation that still influence fashion today.”
Reflecting on the success of Magnetic, Tony says the goal was always to document a pivotal time in UK men’s fashion.
“This isn’t just a book about clothes,” he emphasises. “It’s a chronicle of culture—how fashion, music, and football intersected to create something truly unique.”
Magnetic has already become a must-read for fashion enthusiasts and historians alike, offering a fresh perspective on the roots of British street style and its global impact.
For Tony, the journey continues. His stories remind us that fashion is about more than fabric; it’s about identity, community, and the ever-evolving cultures that shape our lives.
To grab a copy Tonys Book “Magnetic” email – magnetic990@gmail.com for info
