The luxury fashion industry is experiencing a significant shift, one that could reshape the way top brands engage with consumers and produce their collections. For a while, many high-end fashion houses leaned heavily on celebrity stylists, influencers, and viral moments to generate buzz and drive sales. But now, a growing trend is signalling a return to the fundamentals of fashion: the artistry and technical expertise of professional designers. A prime example of this shift is Givenchy’s appointment of Sarah Burton as their new creative director after a nearly year-long search, a decision that underscores this evolving approach.
Givenchy, a prestigious brand under the LVMH conglomerate, took its time in finding a new creative director following the departure of Matthew Williams in late 2023. His exit, after months of rumours that Givenchy was losing its cultural edge, came at a moment of reflection for the brand. As one of the most influential fashion houses, Givenchy faced pressure to reinvigorate its identity while addressing broader industry changes.
After nearly a year of speculation, Givenchy finally confirmed Sarah Burton, the celebrated designer behind Alexander McQueen, as their new creative leader. Burton’s appointment, scheduled to take effect with her first collection in 2025, wasn’t a rushed decision. LVMH reportedly conducted an exhaustive search, interviewing multiple candidates and even undergoing a management restructuring that contributed to the delay. In July, Alessandro Valenti was named Givenchy’s new CEO, adding another layer of strategic changes at the brand.
What makes Sarah Burton’s appointment particularly significant is that it reflects a broader shift in the fashion industry: a return to “proper” designers at the helm of major brands. Over the past few years, many luxury houses, as well as fast fashion giants, have prioritised celebrity collaborations, stylists, and influencers to create buzz and social media engagement. But this trend is beginning to wane. More brands are recognising the value of appointing designers with formal training and deep technical expertise in garment construction, rather than those who generate short-term hype.
This return to craftsmanship and design expertise can be seen in other high-profile appointments. Pieter Mulier at Alaïa and Chemena Kamali at Chloé are examples of brands that have chosen designers with substantial technical backgrounds. Even fast fashion giant Uniqlo recently appointed Clare Waight Keller as its first creative director, recognising that a cohesive, expertly guided creative vision can have long-lasting benefits for a brand.
This shift comes at a crucial moment for the luxury industry. For years, European luxury brands relied heavily on the Chinese market for growth, particularly through logo-heavy, status-driven designs that sold well to Chinese consumers. However, recent economic challenges in China are changing the dynamics. Chinese consumers are becoming more selective in their luxury purchases, prioritising craftsmanship, quality, and longevity over mere brand recognition. This evolving consumer mindset demands a more thoughtful, nuanced approach to design and branding.
In response, fashion houses are beginning to pivot away from the “fashiontainment” strategy that prioritises spectacle and social media virality. Brands like Louis Vuitton’s menswear line and Tommy Hilfiger have thrived in this space, using celebrities and influencers to create buzz around their collections. However, other brands are taking a different path. Houses like Chloé and The Row are focusing on substance, craftsmanship, and wearability—values that resonate more with discerning luxury shoppers, especially in challenging markets like China.
As the dust settles on recent changes within the industry, two clear strategies are emerging. On one hand, there are the “fashiontainment” brands that focus on creating spectacles, often through collaborations with celebrities, influencers, and social media-driven events. These brands capitalise on the fast-paced nature of fashion and entertainment, with collections and campaigns designed to go viral and generate immediate buzz.
On the other hand, there are brands like Chloé, Alaïa, and now Givenchy, which are doubling down on craftsmanship and the technical aspects of fashion design. These brands are betting on the enduring appeal of expertly made garments, emphasising quality and wearability over short-lived trends. Sarah Burton, known for her technical mastery and artistic vision, is a natural fit for Givenchy as it looks to reclaim its identity and position itself as a brand rooted in design expertise.
Givenchy’s choice of Sarah Burton signals a significant moment for the brand and the luxury industry as a whole. Burton’s reputation as a designer with exceptional technical skill and artistic sensibility suggests that Givenchy is focusing on long-term strategy rather than chasing fleeting trends. Burton’s work at Alexander McQueen has been widely praised for its craftsmanship, and her influence on the brand’s haute couture collections was transformative. Now, she brings that same expertise to Givenchy at a time when the industry is starting to value substance over spectacle.
Givenchy’s decision to hire Burton could reflect a broader understanding that today’s consumers—particularly those in key markets like China—are more discerning and value quality, heritage, and craftsmanship. As luxury brands compete in an increasingly complex global market, the ability to create collections that resonate with these consumers could make or break a brand’s success.
The luxury fashion industry is at an inflection point. The return to design expertise and craftsmanship may be the strategy that allows brands to stand out in a market saturated with fleeting trends and viral moments. While “fashiontainment” brands like Louis Vuitton will continue to thrive on social media, the long-term success of luxury houses like Givenchy may depend on their ability to deliver beautifully crafted, expertly designed garments that speak to the desires of today’s most discerning consumers.
In the coming years, it will become clear whether this renewed focus on design fundamentals can reinvigorate brands like Givenchy and reignite consumer passion. If this shift proves successful, it could reshape the luxury fashion landscape for years to come, creating a new standard where design expertise, quality, and craftsmanship reign supreme.
In summary, luxury brands are moving back to their roots by emphasising expert design over influencer-driven hype. Givenchy’s appointment of Sarah Burton marks a key moment in this trend, suggesting that the fashion world is once again valuing craftsmanship and technical skill. As markets like China evolve, this return to substance over spectacle could shape the future of luxury fashion for years to come.
